How the Weft is Prepared in Kashmir

Before a single motif is woven, before the kani is threaded or the shuttle set in motion, there is the weft — the horizontal lifeline of every cashmere shawl. In Kashmiri weaving traditions, weft preparation is more than a technical step. It is an art of patience, intuition, and deep familiarity with the fiber.

At vonoz, where each piece is woven entirely by hand, the quality of the weft determines the soul of the fabric. In this article, we explore how this critical process is carried out by our artisans — and why it remains an essential cornerstone of true luxury.

Warp and Weft: A Simple Foundation

Every woven textile is made from two thread systems: the warp (longitudinal threads held on the loom) and the weft (horizontal threads woven across). While the warp provides structure, the weft defines the softness, density, and character of the final shawl.

Especially in Kani weaving and handspun cashmere, the weft must be perfectly prepared to respond to hundreds of individual thread insertions — without breakage, tension shifts, or distortion.

Hand-Carding and De-Hairing

At vonoz, the process begins with selecting the finest cashmere fiber, often sourced from Ladakh or Tibet. These fibers are first hand-carded — gently teased apart with wire brushes to align the strands — and then meticulously de-haired to remove coarse guard hairs.

The resulting sliver is airy, soft, and uniform — a crucial base for even weft spinning.

Spinning the Weft

In our Kashmiri atelier, the weft is spun by hand using a spindle or charkha. The spinner adjusts twist tension, thickness, and consistency by feel, often based on the design requirements of the shawl to come. This creates a yarn that is:

• Extremely light and breathable
• High in elasticity and drape
• Warm yet whisper-soft

Unlike commercial yarns, these wefts are not chemically treated or over-twisted, preserving the natural loft of the fiber.

Dyeing the Weft

After spinning, the weft yarns are dyed — often with natural botanicals like Kashmiri saffron, Tyrian purple, or indigo. These pigments are fixed using traditional mordants and washed multiple times to achieve colorfastness.

The dyed yarns are then hung in the shade, never direct sun — preserving both fiber and pigment integrity.

Reeling and Winding

Once dry, the yarn is reeled into skeins and wound onto small hand bobbins or kani spools, depending on the weaving technique. This is done with extreme care to prevent entanglement or overstretching — two factors that can ruin months of work.

Weavers will often test tension and alignment with their fingers, adjusting humidity and storage accordingly. In the dry air of winter, the yarn is gently moistened before use. In humid months, it is aired and rested before winding.

Why It Matters

The weft determines more than texture — it sets the emotional tone of the shawl. A well-prepared weft yields a fabric that breathes, moves, and lives. It enhances the pattern, absorbs the dye more beautifully, and softens with every wear.

At vonoz, this level of care is not optional — it is our standard.

Preserving the Invisible

The preparation of the weft is rarely seen by the end customer — yet it is where the shawl begins. Every stroke of the carder, every twist of the spindle, is a quiet assertion of quality. In a world obsessed with the visible, vonoz celebrates the hidden gestures that make true craftsmanship possible.

Because the most exquisite things are often those that go unnoticed — except by touch.

Want to know more about cashmere? See our Cashmere Knowledge Hub.