Handspun vs. Machine-Spun Cashmere

Not all cashmere is created equal — and not all yarns tell the same story. The distinction between handspun and machine-spun cashmere is one of the most fundamental, yet often overlooked, aspects of quality in textile making. At vonoz, we work almost exclusively with handspun fibers for our Kashmiri collections, and for good reason.

In this article, we explore the key differences between these two spinning methods, their impact on texture, durability, and drape — and why handspun yarn remains essential to the vonoz aesthetic.

What Is Spinning?

Spinning is the process of turning loose cashmere fibers into continuous yarns. The process aligns the fibers and twists them into a thread that can be woven or knitted. This step is crucial to both the strength and feel of the finished fabric.

Machine-Spun Cashmere: Uniform, Efficient, Predictable

Machine spinning is widely used in the global textile industry. It produces highly uniform yarns with consistent diameter, tension, and twist. These yarns are easy to dye, easy to weave, and ideal for large-scale production.

However, the tradeoff is in character and breathability. Machine-spun cashmere often feels flat, overly smooth, and lacks the natural loft that allows the fiber to breathe. Its perfection is visual — not tactile.

Handspun Cashmere: Irregular, Lively, Human

Handspinning is a manual process, typically done using a traditional spindle or charkha. The spinner draws out the fiber by feel, adjusting twist and tension instinctively. The resulting yarn has slight irregularities that give it a living texture — full of softness, lightness, and organic beauty.

These imperfections are not flaws; they are signs of human presence. Handspun cashmere traps more air, making it warmer and more breathable. It also develops a distinctive halo over time, giving the fabric a warm, cloud-like appearance.

The vonoz Perspective

In our Kashmiri Heritage Collection, all yarns are spun by hand from Ladakhi and Tibetan cashmere. This maintains the connection to Kashmir’s pre-industrial textile legacy, where every thread was made without machinery.

We embrace the slightly uneven, richly textured quality of handspun yarn — not as a compromise, but as an aesthetic and philosophical choice. The handspun base is also crucial for techniques like Kani weaving and Sozni embroidery, where the yarn must respond sensitively to manipulation.

Functional Differences: What You’ll Feel

Comparing handspun and machine-spun cashmere side by side:

• Texture: Handspun is softer, airier, and warmer to the touch
• Drape: Handspun shawls move more fluidly and naturally
• Longevity: Handspun develops more character over time
• Finish: Machine-spun is slick and uniform; handspun is matte and nuanced

When Machine-Spun Makes Sense

In our Nepali Essence Collection, we occasionally use machine-spun yarns from Mongolia to create extremely soft, voluminous shawls with a more modern appeal. These pieces undergo special washing techniques that enhance the plush feel often associated with contemporary cashmere.

Even in these cases, we insist on ethical sourcing, tight fiber grading, and skilled weaving — because luxury must never be lazy.

Conclusion: Choosing by Intention

The choice between handspun and machine-spun is not binary — it’s contextual. At vonoz, we choose handspun for its soul, its quiet irregularity, and the way it invites touch and memory. For those seeking textile authenticity, handspun cashmere is not optional — it is essential.

Because true luxury is not about uniformity. It’s about intention, tradition, and feel.

Want to know more about cashmere? See our Cashmere Knowledge Hub.