Why Cashmere Harms the Environment (And Fixes)

It’s easy to fall in love with cashmere — soft, light, luxurious. But behind the beauty lies an environmental paradox. Cashmere is both a natural fiber and a contributor to some of the most pressing ecological problems in Central Asia. The good news? The same qualities that make it harmful in mass production also make it fixable through thoughtful sourcing and slow fashion values.

The Core Problem: Overgrazing

Cashmere comes from goats, specifically their fine undercoat. To meet global demand, particularly from fast fashion brands, goat populations in regions like Inner Mongolia have surged dramatically over the past 30 years. More goats means more grazing — and this has had serious consequences:

• Loss of native grasslands
• Soil erosion and desertification
• Increased greenhouse gas emissions due to land degradation
• Biodiversity loss as habitats for native species vanish

Why Goats Are Especially Destructive

Unlike sheep or yaks, goats graze aggressively — eating roots and shoots alike. Their sharp hooves break down fragile topsoil. In arid environments like the Mongolian Plateau, this accelerates desert spread and contributes to massive dust storms across Asia.

This isn’t inherent to goats — it’s a problem of numbers, scale, and mismanagement.

The Water Footprint of Cashmere

While goats themselves are not particularly water-intensive, the processing of cashmere can be. Industrial scouring, dyeing, and finishing often use large volumes of water, especially when synthetic dyes or chemical softeners are involved.

Conventional dye houses in China and other countries may discharge untreated wastewater into rivers — a practice now increasingly under regulation but still prevalent in low-cost production zones.

Transportation and Emissions

Much of the world’s cashmere travels long distances: raw fiber from Mongolia is sent to China for processing, then shipped to Europe for weaving, then flown to markets in the U.S. or Japan. The carbon footprint of this journey can be significant — especially when air freight is involved.

But Cashmere Can Be Sustainable

The very fact that cashmere is a natural, biodegradable, and long-lasting fiber gives it an edge over synthetics — if it’s produced with care. Here's how responsible brands reduce harm:

• Limiting herd sizes: Prevents overgrazing
• Using natural dyes: Reduces chemical and water pollution
• Local production: Lowers transport emissions
• Handweaving: Minimal energy usage compared to industrial looms
• Producing less, with intent: Avoids waste and surplus inventory

Where vonoz Stands

vonoz embraces a model of regenerative luxury. All fibers are sourced from small herder families in Ladakh and Kashmir, where the goat population remains stable, land use is rotational, and dyes are plant-based — including saffron, indigo, and Tyrian purple.

Our products are handwoven and never mass-produced, resulting in a lower overall ecological impact. By creating fewer, better pieces, we believe true cashmere can be part of the environmental solution — not the problem.

What You Can Do as a Consumer

• Buy less, but better: Choose heirloom-quality over high volume
• Ask questions: Transparency is a sign of sustainability
• Check dye processes: Look for natural dye use
• Consider location: Local or artisanal sourcing = lower footprint

Final Thought

Cashmere’s environmental story is complex, but not hopeless. When made slowly, thoughtfully, and respectfully, a single shawl can carry not only warmth — but wisdom. It's up to us to recognize that luxury without care is no luxury at all.

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Learn more about responsible choices in our articles on Recycled vs Virgin Cashmere and The Good Cashmere Standard.